Window on Niksic

From Zabljak centre, we followed a road winding up between rows of alpine houses, following signs to Bosaca (Montenegro’s highest village). There was a place to park opposite some signposts to Jablan jezero. The walk up and along Crvena greda (Red Ridge) takes you through woodland, across pastureland, by the beautiful green Jablan jezero (Poplar Lake) which stands in front of the sheer cliffs of Crvena greda. Even at the end of May, there was still enough snow to make parts of the ascent slightly hazardous with normal hiking shoes. The view from the top (which is covered mainly in scrub but dotted with the occasional remains of trees hit by lightning) is impressive – several lakes are visible and the ridges of Medjed in one direction and Bobotov kuk in another, both speckled with snow only half-melted.  The path from the top leads down the opposite end of the ridge, eventually arriving at a valley with shepherds’ huts, a place named Crijepulj poljana. Now on the flat,...